Often finding your pet is not the same as recovering
your pet. Dogs and cats that are panicked most likely will not come
to the owner when called. Cats, in particular, get into areas that
may be quite inaccessible to people. And dogs just keep moving away
as we chase them through the area. Capturing a lost pet can be
difficult and frustrating for the pet owner. When we get sightings,
we can work to determine if your animal is remaining in the area
and if there a pattern where the pet is eating, sleeping etc. If we
can establish a habit area, we can better address the recovery of
that pet.
Feeding and scent stations
A useful technique is to use feeding /scent stations to draw out a
pet. To make a scent station use a towel or blanket that smells
familiar to the lost pet. (Place the article in bed with another
household pet or favorite person so that it smells like home.)
Place that towel in the area where you believe your pet may be.
Rake up the ground around the article or spread a thick layer of
baking flour around it. This is so that you can see the tracks of
any animal that may be visiting the station. Place some attractive
smelling food on the towel. The scent station should be in a
sheltered place where your pet will feel relatively safe
visiting.
You may also consider opening a garage or outbuilding door and
setting a station in there. You can set the station and then
approach the area from various directions. We once tracked a tiny
dog in the winter such that we could see his little dog prints
where he followed the owner's prints made earlier that week while
looking for his dog.
Owner
Another attractor, is the owner sitting and waiting for the pet to
approach. This is like a stake out technique. It is useful when you
have an animal that is afraid of most people but is very bonded to
the owner. Once things settle and the pet has calmed down he/she
may come to the owner. Have favorite treats and let your pet come
to you. Call to him/her quietly and calmly.
One technique is to volunteers to walk around a contained area
while the owners sits in the middle. We had such a case where the
dog moved away from the walkers toward the owner until she got
close enough to smell the cheese steak sandwiches they were waving
around. After many sightings and chasing the dog all around town,
the dog finally walked right up to the owner.
Family Pet
Bring a familiar pet on a leash or in a crate into the area in
order to draw your lost pet close. Buck and I once recovered an
Anatolian Shepherd this way. This big dog's long legs he just kept
moving farther and farther away from us. Finally, I gave up chasing
him we moved off at an angle in a last ditch attempt to intercept
him. He finally saw his little daycare buddy and came to us where I
could slip a leash over his head. (I’d like to say calmly slip the
leash on but after that long run it would be hard to describe
gasping for oxygen as calm.) This has worked for dogs that would
not come close to a human. This has also worked for cats, though
one needs to put the attractor cat safely in a carrier in order to
reduce the risk of losing it also.
One word of caution. Even before we were officially helping people
recover lost pets, Xena and I had a call out from a desperate GSD
rescue in the area. They had a litter of feral puppies. One of the
sisters had just been spayed when she bolted and ran into the
woods. When we got there they told me they had brought the brother
out to look for her. It worked she saw him and came close. When she
did the brother panicked and backed out of his collar and ran off
with his sister. Now we had to track two lost dogs not just the
original one. We eventually recovered the brother with the use of a
humane trap.
Humane trap
Humane traps can often be borrowed from shelters. There are a few
different kinds of traps available. Placing the trap is an art
essentially you want to locate it in an area where the animal is
comfortable. Do not leave it in direct sun or exposed to cold wind.
Place it in a sheltered area by a wall or brush. Wrap a blanket
(preferably one that smells like home) around it. In some cases
leave the back uncovered so it appears to be a tunnel not an
enclosed area. You may need to cover the bottom of the inside if
your pet will hesitate to walk on mesh. Make sure anything you
place inside does not interfere with the trigger mechanism. Also do
not leave animals in traps for any length of time especially if the
weather is warm or cold! Check them frequently every hour or so or
watch them from a distance. If you do not get results in a few days
try moving the station a little distance. Sometimes it helps to
start with food just outside the trap then move it inside.
If your cat is in the trap bring the whole thing in side a safe
place (like your house.) before you open the door. your cat may be
panicked and run away again. It is frustrating for the owners to
have their pet back in their hands only to loose it again if it
panics and runs away and now may be trap savvy meaning it will be
even more difficult to trap because he/she will not enter the trap.
We have recovered several pets that never would let a human get
close enough to catch using the traps.
Feeding Station
A feeding station by a back porch in a back yard or in a garage.
The directions were given in detail previously. Indoor only cats in
particular when they get out may be very close to home but not
responding to the owner. The feeding station will keep them in the
area enabling you to eventually recover your pet. It may take weeks
for this technique to work. Particularly when used in conjunction
with a baby monitor or motion detecting camera the feeding stations
can be a very successful tool.
Baby monitor / listening device
If the feeding/scent station is close to your house or someone’s
house combine it with a baby monitor so you can hear when an animal
is visiting it from inside the house. (Often people use these with
babies you may be able to borrow one form friends or family who
have older children that have outgrown the baby monitor. (be
careful if you borrow one client discovered that they are not
weather proof the hard way.) Place the monitor by the feeding
station when you hear something eating simply check on it if it
your missing pet invite him inside. Many cats have been recovered
using this technique. If you have a particularly skittery dog but
have narrowed down an area he is hiding in. Try placing the owner
in the center of that area; use a large number of people
surrounding the outside of the area moving gradually closer toward
the middle, to drive the animal slowly toward the owner. If you are
searching an area with lots of people it may be prudent to have
“spotters” people placed around the outside of the area to watch
that the pet is not flushed out of the area.
Be creative no one knows your pet like you do!
Successfully recovering lost pets is as much art and luck, as it is
science. It may take weeks or months -- in some cases it takes
years. Do not forget to take care of yourself. Missing meals or
sleep will interfere with your ability to make rational decisions
or do what needs to be done to recover your pet. Because recovering
a lost pet may turn into a long-term project, you need to make time
for family and work obligations as well. I tell people the first
stage is very intensive. The first few hours and weeks are very
time consuming and labor intensive. If you are searching for your
pet for an extended period of time, you may then settle into a
maintenance mode. This is where you update fliers and
continue to follow up on sightings. You need to be aware that not
all pets are recovered.
The sad truth is tha sometimes we just do not find out what
happened to the pet. At a recent presentation with a group of human
search and rescue volunteers we almost all had cases of lost humans
who were never recovered. The recently very publicized Vivi case of
the show dog that escaped from the airport in NYC was never
resolved. However two years later and volunteers are still looking
for her in the hopes she will resurface. Who knows... it has
happened before!